nw3 to nyc

Observations on moving my family across the Atlantic


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Gotta pick a pickle or two

Today is Pickle Day on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. Yes, you heard right, it’s a festival of pickles. Intrigued we wandered down the 6 line to Spring Street and discovered Pickle Day on Orchard Street, which had been shut down for the occasion.

Pickle Day

And are pickles popular with the populous of New York? Why yes they are. It was rammed. There were people picking pickles everywhere. Some were quite nice and some were disgusting. There were pickles on sticks, on trays and in buckets. What a perfect way to spend a sunny Sunday in New York. We bought pickled cucumbers and fennel from Boulton and Watt, which is a restaurant nearby that makes its own pickles. You can buy a jar at the bar for $5. Beats peanuts.

Boulton and Watt pickles

 

 


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Sinnabon

Here in the US there is the Cinnabon, but I have renamed it the Sinnabon. I have mentioned my love of cake before and my recent discovery of the pumpkin cinnamon bun from Glaser’s Bakery but I may have to re-think this. Today, in the food court at Philadelphia Station (lovely building, take note Penn Station in New York) I discovered Cinnabon. It sells cinnamon buns. The lady behind the counter was making them, rolling out the dough and baking them there and then. It was like a heavenly site in the heart of Pennsylvania. I ordered one, with a cup of Early Grey tea. Black. And then I read the small print. The calorie values there, small, but there. 750 calories for one bun. 1080 calories for the one with the pecans and extra goo. Gumph. I looked at the lovely lady and said ‘I’m so sorry, but I can’t bring myself to knowingly eat that many calories’ – not as an afternoon snack on a train back to New York, anyway. She looked sympathetic and asked if I still wanted to have the tea. I said no and walked away solemnly. But not to worry, an oatmeal raisin cookie from Au Bon Pain (America’s answer to a little bit of France in every city) is a mere 320 calories, so I had that instead. And I still got the Earl Grey.


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Ohh, I feel so homesick now

One of my New York friends has just pointed out to me the 36 hours in Hampstead article in yesterday’s New York Times. Hampstead is NW3. It’s filled with all the places I know and love – it majors on places to eat and it’s spot on. It even includes British Military Fitness, which I miss desperately, even after nearly a year away – and my abs miss them too. Do read this and go to Hampstead for 36 hours.

Two more years…


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Not quite Damien Hirst

There was a Damien Hirst retrospective at Tate Modern last year. It was full of predictable spot paintings, medicine cabinets, dead animals and some rather pretty butterfly pictures. But the real draw was the diamond encrusted skull. To see this you had to queue separately in the Turbine Hall and see it in a pitch black room, with access via a scary looking security guard, with spot lights strategically placed to allow the diamonds to dazzle. It was impressive. It was expensive. It was 50 million quid!

I was reminded of this when I went into Dean and Deluca earlier today. As New York gears up for Halloween (it’s everywhere and it’s nearly a month away) they have put on sale a solid chocolate skull. I took a snap to share my incredulity with you today. It’s price?  A mere $65. Gumph. How would you eat it?

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Panic in the bakery

I have discovered a new favourite food: the pumpkin cinnamon bun from Glaser’s Bake Shop on 1st Avenue. So light and fluffy and so big and so fattening and yet so lovely. It’s seasonal, so a temporary obsession. I had my eye on Glaser’s for some time, it’s a bit of a time warp shop, looks like it hasn’t been updated since it opened in 1902. When I went in for the first time just last week, I was accosted by the heat of the place, my god, they need something in there, I have no idea how the jolly ladies behind the counter could stand it. I felt like I had walked into a 1950s TV programme, maybe ‘Call the Midwife’ (recently watched on HBO) or Open All Hours.

I am entranced by the array of lardy cake stuffs which consist mostly of buns, incredible large fluffy meringue pies (lemon of course, none of your lime nonsense) and the biggest tray of brownies I have ever seen. E and I are standing there, our eyes open wide and our months gawping. I am shaken out of my trance by a fellow shopper, a woman with her 3-ish something child in a buggy. The conversation goes something like this:

“How old is she?”, says the lady, pointing at E.

“She is 7, 7 and a half” I reply in my best English accent.

“What school does she go to?”

“X school” I respond.

“What grade is she in? Did she start in Pre K?” further interrogates the unusually interested lady.

“Err, no she just started in second grade”, I respond, surprised by the directness and interest in the bakery queue.

At which point, she turns away from me, and starts on the next person in the queue, who has just the one child in a buggy. I am bemused. What was that about? Then it dawned on me as I overheard the rest of her interrogations. She was asking other mothers about schools because she was applying for her daughter and was relaying the trauma of trying to get application forms from local private schools where the competition is tough. She told tales of dialling over and over to get an answer from admissions departments on the day after Labor Day.

She wasn’t interested in me because I hadn’t gone through it. If she’d thought about it, she would have asked where did E go in pre K (equivalent kind of to reception in a UK primary school). But she didn’t, so I listened, amused at the panic in the bakery and wondered how many other stores she had had that same conversation that day. For me, I was just relieved to leave the oppressive heat of the place and munch my lovely pumpkin cinnamon bun with a nice cup of tea.


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It’s crazy in here

It’s Labor Day here in the US (yes, it does look weird without the ‘u’). It’s basically a late summer bank holiday and is often cited as the unofficial end of summer. And it seems that this is the day that lots of people return to NYC after summers spent in the Hamptons and other exotic Long Island locations. It’s all very Revenge, if you’ve ever watched that ridiculous but compelling TV programme.

I made a quick visit to Fairway and it was packed with people stocking up and the queues snaked around the store. I have a love hate relationship with Fairway, as I struggle to come to turns with their uneven customer service, but today they coped superbly with the queues and I sped through. The British section was eerily quiet but full of Walkers Prawn Cocktail crisps, which have gone up from 99c to $1.19 since we started buying them, I think we forced the price up all by ourselves. I mention this because it has a new sign, which was hard to photograph because the aisle is narrow, so I will transpose the text below if you can’t quite see it. It’s great:

“A Union Jack here would be trite. And Pandering. We’re above that. Suffice to say here are the icon staples of British life that we import way out of our way to sooth the savage beast who thinks we’re just a bunch of heathens.”

I couldn’t get the picture of the Union Jack painted sports car on the right hand side, which is possibly British made.

Marvellous.

blog pic sign


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Let’s talk about coleslaw

Yes, I know this is possibly not the most interesting topic in the world, but it’s on my mind and I feel the need to vent. I like coleslaw, I like the combination of shredded cabbage and carrot in a pleasant mayonnaise that I can add to my sandwich. I like it on ham and I like it on cheese. I quite like it on a baked potato too. It is a savoury snack. Not a sweet snack. I hate coleslaw in the US. What do they do to it that makes is so incredibly sweet? I know, I’ll pour some sugar into the mayonnaise just to up the calorie count. Great idea. And whilst I’m on about it, when I ask for a quarter pound (yes, the US still uses Imperial, an entirely separate subject to rant about) I want 0.25 of a pound, also known as 4 ounces. But no, you always get more and today I was given 0.42, which is pretty much half a pound. I was experimenting with a new source of coleslaw from Sable’s and it was equally hideous. I have, however, discovered the answer to this problem. Low fat coleslaw, sometimes known as ‘healthy coleslaw’ – ahem, I don’t think there’s anything particularly healthy about coleslaw, either way it’s mayonnaise and that’s pretty fattening. But hey, by making it low fat all the sugar seems to disappear. I now have the answer. Try Morton Williams deli or Fairways to see what I mean.


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Hangin’ with the hipsters

Well, not exactly, just visiting Brooklyn, which is apparently full of them. R tried to explain to me what a ‘hipster’ is and occasionally points one out in the street, but I’m still not sure. They seem to be mostly blokes in bad dress, NHS inspired glasses (but with no prescription) and big boots. Too hot for all that yesterday in the DUMBO area of Brooklyn and where we made our latest discovery: the Smorgasburg. No, this is not a typo. It’s an open air food market, with the unfortunate name of Brooklyn Flea Food Market – flea means to me horrible old second hand stuff sold in a dank church hall, but here means a market with lots of lovely food. It was so good, with dozens of stalls selling mouth watering food and massive queues at the more popular salt beef sandwich stall. We see massive blocks of ice being shaved to get icy drinks; iced tea of new and exotic varieties and my favourite? Bon Chovie – Brooklyn’s only fried anchovy. Which for anyone with a passing knowledge of 80s soft rock groups sporting long hair and a lot of denim, is a great pun on the rock band Bon Jovi. Quite why anyone would deep fry an anchovy is beyond me, maybe it’s what hipsters eat?

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